Bespoke Basil
Forni Brown Gardens

DISCOVER - May 5, 2009

Anticipation gripped us as we pulled into the wholesale, organic vegetable and herb farm in Calistoga. It's only open to the public in April. No website, no ads, only word of mouth. We were about to play with the big boys, bespoke purveyors to culinary stars, like Thomas Keller and Cindy Pawlcyn.

Would Forni Brown Gardens deal with mere mortals planting a small garden? The answer came from a mild mannered gentleman, dressed in worker's clothes. "A farmer indeed I am," acknowledged co-owner Barney Welsh, who once described himself as "Captain Lettuce." It didn't matter that we were buying 8 not 80 plants. He patiently elicited our tastes and schooled us on space, light, and soil constraints. Were the tomatoes for sauce or salad? Which of the nine different basils we sniffed suited us? Could those tiny strawberries we enjoyed in Italy actually grow here?

Wine country's most talented chefs demand original, fresh ingredients. They care mightily about the smallest details, right down to the height of greens delivered live for uniform presentation. Peter Forni, Lynn Brown and Barney Welsh custom make the produce that contributes to these culinary delicacies.

Our view of basil will never be the same. Hopefully your local purveyor will do the same for you.

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