Secret Agent
Chambers Street Wines
SHOP - September 10, 2009
For nearly 400 years, Olivier Humbrecht's family has nurtured grapes in the Alsace wine region of France. Today Olivier, who was the first Frenchman to qualify as a Master of Wine, produces profound Rieslings and rose-petal Gewürztraminers at the famed Zind-Humbrecht estate. He's also a trained scientist that has gone biodynamic. The many small, family-owned estates of Alsace, whose owners see themselves as peasants, in the best sense of the word, have so embraced this form of uber-organic farming that Alsace has become a Mecca of sorts for biodynamics.
Although there's much to be respected about biodynamics, it's easy to be suspicious of burying cow horns stuffed with manure and "dynamizing" vineyard soil with the dug-up contents in sync with phases of the moon. So where should wine enjoyers look to test the end product of the ultimate in natural viticulture?
In Manhattan of all places, where the adage goes "if you want green, order spinach," we found this month's secret agent, Chambers Street Wines. David Lillie and soft-spoken Jamie Wolff do the hard work. They research and offer "the best naturally-made, small-producer wines from around the world." This is no empty boast. Chambers' website currently lists 469 such wines and outlines useful information about natural, organic and biodynamic wines.
"We first went for these wines because of their quality," noted Jamie. If high caliber is the standard, what's a wine enjoyer to lose? Below are three that Jamie recommends.
Chambers Street Wines
148 Chambers Street
New York, NY 10007
Phone: 212 227-1434
www.ChambersStWines.com
Each month, we profile a Secret Agent who specializes in a region, product, or service from wine country.
Interested in more? Read Jamie Wolff's picks and descriptions...
Sobon Estate 2007 Amador County Zinfandel Hillside, $10.49 (Organic)
This is an amazing value - it tastes as good - or better - as many Zins that are much, much more expensive. This has real richness balanced by good acidity that really shows off the juicy black fruit and stony mineral character of the wine. Remarkable wine!
Ulivi (Cascina degli Ulivi) 2007 Gavi, $17.99 (BioDynamic)
Finally, I say, a Gavi that I like and that's not over-oaked, and/or a stupid price (see Black Label, for example). For one thing this has some zip to it - good acidity that balances the grapes natural nutty richness if the yields are controlled as they are for this wine. There's some lime, green plum, walnut on the nose and palate; medium body and good length. An excellent addition to the Christmas eve fish menu.
Guion 2007 Bourgueil Cuvee Domaine, $10.99 (Organic)
Very pretty and bright red fruit aromas (raspberry and red-currant), light to medium bodied, very well balanced. Refreshing, with lovely pure fruit, I like this better than the 2006. A beautiful and well-priced Cabernet Franc that shows the benefits of two generations of organic farming, hand harvesting, wild yeasts, and minimal sulfites - bravo to the Guions!
Wine mark-ups and prices vary, and, as such, Wine Country Minute 00:60 cannot guarantee the accuracy of the listed prices. Please check around to find the best price and availability.
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