Secret Agent
Dee Vine Wines
SHOP - November 4, 2009
The popularity of German Rieslings took a tumble when dry, bold, and heavily oaked Chardonnays became almost synonymous with white wine in America. The delicate aromatics of Rieslings no longer seemed to fit. But when refined Asian and fusion cuisines became the rage, wines with high alcohol levels and tannins clashed with the piquant taste of the new cooking. Chefs and sommeliers recognized that Rieslings harmonized well with fusion's spicy and savory tastes.
Riesling's great versatility from bone dry to racy sweet is its greatest asset; but how do I choose one that best fits the occasion? Hidden deep behind giant gates in a dimly lit commercial warehouse on San Francisco's Embarcadero, you'll find secret agents who have the answers.
"Riesling's versatility made it the darling of sommeliers, which helped Riesling out of its doldrums," explains Otto Han, retail manager at Dee Vine Wines. This shop's selection is beyond par. Stacked on the floor are current vintages from all the prime German growing regions and top producers. The jewel in the crown is a collection of late harvest Trockenbeerenauslese (or TBA for short), with bottles dating back to the 1860's. These everlasting, low alcohol wines, which are intensely sweet and aromatic, are made from shriveled grapes affected by so-called "noble rot."
"Fine German Rieslings are a bargain considering their quality and the forbidding climate and steep terrain they are grown in," comments Otto. So, if you're in an oaky Chard rut, step out and re-discover why German Rieslings were once the highest priced wines of the rich and famous.
Dee Vine Wines
Pier 19 The Embarcadero
San Francisco, CA 94111
Phone: 415 398-3838
www.dvw.com
Our Secret Agent series profiles specialists in a region, product, or service from wine country.
Otto's Pairings Sure to Delight
2008 Josef Rosch Leiwener Klostergarten Kabinett ($15.50)
If in SF, dine in or take out at Shalimar, but either way have the Kabinett ready. The Tandoori chicken is the best I've tasted and the fresh fruitiness of the Kabinett balances the heat from this dish perfectly.
2006 Solter Rheingau Riesling Brut Sekt ($20)
The fine acidity (Helmut Solter uses Spätlese as a dosage) and bubbles really wipe your palate clean and leaves it renewed and ready for more buttery bites of fresh roasted Dungeness Crab. The Solter really picks up on the citrus peel used in this recipe.
2008 Keller Riesling QbA "von der Fels" trocken (meaning dry) ($30)
This dry Riesling makes the floral characteristics of the Redwood Hill Farms California Crottin explode on the palate. This is truly one of the best cheese and wine pairings I have experienced.
Wine mark-ups and prices vary, and, as such, Wine Country Minute 00:60 cannot guarantee the accuracy of the listed prices. Please check around to find the best price and availability.
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