Expert's Picks - Chardonnay, eh?
Canadian Wine

TASTE - July 30, 2009

A chance introduction at a Napa tasting turned into an unlikely conversation about wine - from Canada. La Terrazza restaurant in Vancouver offers some 2,500 labels and 40,000 bottles. The French and Italian classics that permeate the award-winning list do not overshadow the owners' bias for British Columbia production. Exploration is essential to enjoying wine, but we don't expect you to be Jacques Cartier. So we asked chef Gennaro Iorio and sommelier Guilio Miceli to start the discovery of wines from our northern neighbor.

Q. Which grape varieties excel in Canada?
A. Canadian wine production is still in its infancy but shows potential. A wide range of grape varieties are planted throughout Eastern and Western Canada. The ones that excel based on our limited ripening season are lighter grape varieties such as Pinot Gris, Chardonnay, Cabernet Franc and Pinot Noir.

Q. How do Canadian Chards and Pinots generally compare to their California and Oregon brethren?
A. Canadian Chardonnays generally display a more floral bouquet with a lighter structure and a higher acidic profile. Our Pinot Noirs are much leaner in body with a focused bouquet and a less opulent finish. Most importantly, they have less of an oak influence.

Q. Which north of the border wines from your list should our readers explore?
A. From Ontario, look for the world-renowned Iniskillan Ice Wine, a rich viscous dessert wine with a wonderful bouquet, honey nuances and a citrus finish. This wine demonstrates the excellence in Canada's ice wine production.

From British Columbia, the Blue Mountain Stripe Label, Pinot Noir Reserve, 2007 exhibits a Burgundian style. It is a light to medium bodied wine with a bouquet of ripe cherries, accented by vanilla and a refined finish highlighted by a touch of spice. All Pinot Noir lovers would appreciate this wine.

Still curious about Canada? Check out La Terrazza's recommendations for savory summer pairings.

Wine: 2008 Burrowing Owl, Pinot Gris, Oliver, British Columbia ($20)
Tangy light Pinot Gris that finishes with a lovely citrus balance. Pairing: Bistecca di Calamari - grilled calamari steak, warmed green asparagus, finished in a lemon - pepperoncino tomato butter.

Wine: 2005 Poplar Grove, Cabernet Franc, Penticton, British Columbia ($40)
Medium bodied red with a herbaceous bouquet with soft tannins and clean finish.
Pairing: Melanzane alla Siciliana - baked eggplant layered with bocconcini, tomato ragú and basil infused extra virgin olive oil.

Wine: 2007 Blue Mountain, Pinot Noir, Okanagan Falls, British Columbia ($24.90)
Classic Burgundian style red. Bouquet of ripe cherries, accented by a touch of vanilla with a refined finish highlighted by a touch of spice. Pairing: Linguine Crostacei - linguine with sautéed jumbo tiger prawns, manila clams, capers, finished in a white wine - tomato concassé.

Wine mark-ups and prices vary, and, as such, Wine Country Minute 00:60 cannot guarantee the accuracy of the listed prices. Please check around to find the best price and availability.

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